Image: Toilgirls.com

Before you shop, keep in mind that curvy ladies in the past certainly wore a hard-core girdle. Take your
measurements or try on vintage wearing appropriate undies, including a girdle or waist shaper and a sturdy, supportive bra. Matching your favorite styles to your body type isn’t just about what’s flattering, but also about what fits. Dresses that are loose at the hips may fit even if you carry weight below your waist, while a loose shift can work with a thicker waistline.

While no one’s advocating that you take a needle and thread to priceless, irreplaceable vintage, you can alter everyday pieces to fit your frame or restyle them to create something flattering out of a playful print muumuu. A loose grandma-style housedress can be lopped off and hemmed to create a cute, casual blouse to wear with modern capris. If you find a great 1960s or ‘70s print dress that has a full skirt, but doesn’t fit anywhere else, remove the top and add a waistband for a skirt you can wear and enjoy.

Vintage accessories don’t come with size tags. Pair purses, jewelry and hats with modern clothing or vintage reproductions to get the look of vintage in your size. Try adding a patent clutch and over-size 1960s rhinestone brooch to your basic little black dress to give it a Breakfast at Tiffany’s style or wear a Duane Bryer’s Hilda, Image: Toilgirls.com

modern pencil skirt and fitted sweater with a jaunty hat and sturdy hand-crocheted purse for a 1940s look. Matching your hair and makeup to the period can also create that vintage look even when your clothes are new.

While vintage reproductions can give you the look of vintage, you can also opt to buy vintage patterns and sew your own. It’s still quite easy to find patterns from the 1940s to 1970s in larger sizes, ranging from a modern 12 to 18. If you’re larger than an 18, you can grade up a pattern to fit with simple changes. Several pattern companies have rereleased vintage patterns, allowing you to pick your size without any searching or shopping.

Jantzen Bra Ad 1960. Image: BettySwallow.Files.Wordpress.com

Whether you’re a rockabilly girl or are sporting a classic and elegant vintage style, the right undergarments will make your 50′s dresses and sweater-girl sweaters look their best. The silhouette of the 1950s has a high, pointed bustline, curvy hips and a small, nipped-in waistline. No one naturally has a wasp waist and conical bosom, then or now. While you may not want to buy vintage undies, you can find modern solutions to old-fashioned underwear to get the right look and make your vintage fit.

Working from the top down, you need a structured soft-cup bra with a full-coverage cup. This isn’t the time for a padded, push-up style or a modern-day minimizer. Fortunately, several manufacturers still produce bras in the 1950s style, some in the same models available 60 years ago. Longline bras will smooth your torso under fitted dresses and were a wardrobe must for dressy styles in the 1950s. Go nude for a versatile choice or opt for black if you’re aiming for a naughtier vintage pin-up style under your favorite 50s cocktail dress.

If you’re not planning to wear a panty girdle, your girdle will go on over your undies. This is the time for a high-waisted brief, rather than a bikini or thong. The brief style panty won’t leave a panty line and will provide some protection from chafing and discomfort caused by your girdle. Cotton is a breathable choice, but nylon is a more traditional vintage option. If you’re not quite a granny-panty girl, you’ll find some sexier lace accented styles for a lingerie look.

Even if you’re slim, a girdle provides the support, structure and posture you need for a 1950s figure. Girdles range from long garments that go from your bra to your hips to a waist cincher that nips in your waistline or an easy-to-wear panty girdle. The 1950s girdle was a modern invention for the time, relying on sturdy and strong elastic in place of boning and lacing. Zippers, hooks and pull-on styling make 50s style girdles easy to put on, even without help. You may not find girdles alongside Spanx in your favorite department store, but they’re still available and favored by some older women. Your girdle should slim your waist, flatten your stomach and smooth your hips. Most have garter clips to hold your stockings in place.

Pantyhose were revolutionary when they were introduced in the 1960s, but the 1950s woman wore stockings held up with garters. Nude is the classic color choice with vintage, but patterned stockings and fishnets were stylish. If you’re not fond of nude stockings, opt for sheer black. Seamless stockings came around in 1952 so you can choose seamless or seamed stockings with your 50s dresses and skirts.

Just like today, figures ranged from slim and toned to curvy and voluptuous in the 1950s. The 50s shape wasn’t created in the gym or pilates class. The body of the 50s was shaped and molded with girdles and bras to create an hourglass shape regardless of what nature provided. For a modern woman wearing vintage, the same holds true. Invest in the right girdle and bra to make your 50s dresses and skirts fit and look fabulous, whether you’re wearing a thrift store find to lunch with the girls or you’re sporting a formal gown for a red carpet event.

Clear 1950s pumps. Image: Dorothea's Closet Vintage

If you’re going for a head-to-toe vintage style, your shoes matter. Finding vintage shoes to match your favorite suit or ’50s cocktail dress can be a challenge, whether you’re a size five or a size ten. Modern reproductions and vintage-inspired styles are an ideal solution when you can’t find the vintage pumps or wedges you need to finish your outfit. Shop vintage reproduction shoes, dance shoe suppliers and even the shoe store down the street for shoes to go with a flapper dress or ’60s suit.

For a 1920s or 30s look, choose a Mary Jane or T-strap shoe with a chunky heel, no more than 1-inch to 2 1/2-inches high for daywear. A round or slightly pointed toe is appropriate for daytime. You can also pair 1920s daywear with a simple lace-up Oxford. Basic black, navy or burgundy will pair with nearly anything, but bright colors including red, blue and even golden yellow were also popular. Dress up your toes in the evening with chunky heeled pumps with an exaggerated pointed toe in brightly colored fabrics or metallics.

Rationing limited ’40s shoe styles. Simple low-heeled Oxfords were a practical choice for working women. Dressier styles included simple pumps or ankle-strap shoes in basic black. Innovations in shoe design in the 1940s included the wedge heel and new sandal styles. Higher heels are appropriate with dressier ’40s vintage; however, choose a chunkier heel rather than a very slender one. Designers experimented with new materials, including synthetic fabrics, to create shoes that weren’t subject to rationing regulations.

The ’50s introduced low vamps, curves and high heels to shoe design. Shoes came in every color and fabric, allowing you to match even the most lavish dresses. Pointed toes and a slender silhouette enhanced the delicate appearance of the leg, particularly in contrast to the full skirts favored by ’50s designers. Many modern heels will pair well with dressier 1950s vintage. Choose a slender heel with a slight curve. If you’re going casual in 1950s vintage, sandals, ballet flats or simple canvas sneakers can polish off your retro look.

Dressier attire from the ’60s still requires a 1950s style stiletto, but chunky-heeled slip-ons pair well with 1960s pants outfits. Skip the stilettos with a mini in favor of a chunky-heeled boot. Boots in vinyl, plastic and synthetic fabrics covered up bare legs and came in a variety of heights. Experiment with modern boots to find one that suits your style.

Pair ’70s vintage with your favorite shoe style. Flats, wedges, stilettos and platforms co-existed in the free-thinking 1970s. Try platforms to elongate your legs with bell bottom jeans or a simple wedge sandal with a maxi-dress. Knee-high boots with a 2-inch to 3-inch chunky heel work well with knee-length ’70s skirts.

Image: Miss Rags Vintage

Vintage wool sweaters, knit dresses and other garments require special care to look and smell their best. All too often these treasures come with an unappealing mothball smell and may have stains or discoloration. If you wear your vintage woolens regularly, you may need to launder them to deal with odors and stains. Handwashing is the standard for fine knitwear, offering a gentler option than many dry cleaners.

Before you wash, you need to identify the fibers in your sweater. If there’s a label, you’re in luck. Wool will be labeled wool, merino wool or Shetland wool. Other natural fibers common in vintage sweaters include mohair, silk and angora. You may also find blends containing both natural animal fibers and artificial fibers. Treat all wool and wool blends with the same gentle care for the best results. If you don’t have a label and you’re still not sure, assume it’s a delicate fiber like wool or angora to avoid damage. Synthetics, including acrylic, will stand up to less careful laundering.

Choose the right product to wash your wool sweaters. Skip the Woolite in favor of a gentler, no-rinse cleaner. Local yarn and quilt shops offer products suitable for the most delicate vintage. Look for brands like Soak, Orvus or Eucalan to care for your vintage knitwear. In a pinch, you can also use a good-quality shampoo free of silicones to wash your woolens.

While most vintage wool and wool blend sweaters can be washed at home by hand, there are some exceptions. Avoid washing anything with a lining at home, as many vintage linings will not stand up to water, particularly if they’re synthetic. You may also wish to avoid hand washing beaded, sequined or embellished sweaters. If you do want to take your chances, carefully test the beadwork in a discreet location to make sure it can tolerate water. If you’re concerned, your favorite vintage retailer or local museum can help to refer you to a drycleaner experienced with vintage clothing.

To wash your wool knitwear, fill a basin or tub with lukewarm water. Add a small amount of your favorite wool wash and swish to dissolve. Place the sweater into the water, pressing it into the tub. Allow it to soak briefly to remove any stains, odors or debris. Very dirty and smelly vintage pieces may require several washings in clean water and wool wash. Rinse your sweater with cool water if necessary. Many wool washes do not require a rinse; however, it can be helpful to remove any remaining dirt. Place the sweater onto a thick white towel and press to remove excess water. Lay the sweater flat, carefully shaping it so the hem, neckline and cuffs will lie flat once it’s dry. Allow your sweater to dry completely.

If a basic wash isn’t enough to remove that unwanted mothball smell, try closing your sweater up in a plastic storage tub with an open container of rolled up newspaper. Leave the sweater for several days. The newspaper will absorb the odors without damaging your fine vintage woolens.

Image: Sense and Sensibility Patterns

While today’s wardrobe basics include dark jeans, a basic white button down and a little black dress, the well-dressed woman of the 1930s had a more involved wardrobe to manage her home, welcome visitor or run errands and dress for evening. Wealthier women had larger wardrobes and better quality clothing, but the middle class followed suit with house dresses, afternoon dresses and best dresses for daily wear.

A well-off young woman’s trousseau in the 1930s would have included a three-piece suit, a skirt and sweater set, a street dress, a dressier afternoon dress, and a summer dress and jacket. Compared to a modern closet, four dresses, two skirts, three jackets and a sweater set seems a minimal wardrobe for going out-and-about. One evening or dinner dress rounded out a young woman’s wardrobe after her wedding.

While our girl’s trousseau doesn’t mention them, middle class women wore simple, practical frocks much of the time. Morning dresses or housedresses were simple cotton dresses, typically made in small floral or gingham prints. These dresses were comfortable and washable and could be made at home, making them ideal for cleaning, gardening, child care and chores at home. Morning dresses didn’t require a girdle and weren’t worn out of the house. Wrap dress designs were especially popular and accommodated changing figures with ease. Hemlines stopped just below the knee for practicality’s sake. If you were wealthy enough not to manage your own household, silk lounging pajamas would have replaced the basic everyday house dress until you were ready to dress for the day.

Afternoon activities, including luncheons, shopping or charity work required a dressier afternoon dress or matching suit. Dresses, made of rayon or silk, typically had a high neckline, fitted bodice and gored  skirt. Suits paired a matching skirt and jacket in wool or heavy knit. The suit could be paired with a fine gauge fitted sweater if you were slender or a pintucked silk blouse if you were a bit more voluptuous. Both dresses and suits were hemmed to mid-calf length. Long, relatively straight cardigans could be paired with dresses or worn over a simple shell with skirts. Working women, including teachers, telephone operators and secretaries, would have worn suits or skirts and sweaters as workday basics.

Fitness activities had become fashionable in the 1920s and the recommended trousseau includes a silk sport frock, but rayon sport frocks were also common. Sport dresses are simple, casual dresses, suitable for many everyday activities including recreational ones. Shorts might be worn beneath the sports frock for modesty’s sake.

While the lower middle classes owned nothing better than their Sunday best, the upper middle classes and upper classes dressed for dinner in evening wear. A lacy evening dress and matching wrap were an essential part of the 1930s trousseau. Evening gowns in the 1930s were long, bias-cut dresses that flattered the figure. Dresses in silk, lace and velvet were favored.

Shoe and bag collections weren’t expected during the 1930s. Our young bride went off to her new home with a pair of street shoes, a dressier pair of afternoon shoes and a pair of evening slippers. She had only two hats, one in straw and one in felt and a single handbag. Four pairs of gloves and a dozen handkerchiefs rounded out our young woman’s wardrobe.